Monday, January 18, 2010

How can you get a rabbit to stop peeing on teh furniture?

I have a rabbit that is about 8 months old, and wheni let it in the house for it to run around, it tends to go to the bathroom in the corners of the house, and when she sneaks onto the funiture, she doe sit there too.


How can I get her to stop?How can you get a rabbit to stop peeing on teh furniture?
Potty train her or put her in a cage. A rabbit isn't like a dog they don't know when they are doing something wrong.How can you get a rabbit to stop peeing on teh furniture?
Have the rabbit altered (spayed), and work on box training. Peeing on furniture is often territorial marking and is hormonally motivated. The key to litter training is to slowly offer freedom and locate the boxes near where she likes to spend her time. Additional tips and tricks are here: http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/litte鈥?/a>
They like to go to the washroom in corners (for some reason). It IS possible to litter train rabbits and once you do they usually prefer to use the litter box over anything else. You can buy rodent litter boxes in any pet store and they are actually shaped specially to fit in corners! I would start by putting one in her cage so she gets used to it. Try and notice if there is a particular corner of her cage she uses and put it there (they often choose one corner to use as a bathroom)Then get another one and put it in one of the corners she normally goes to the washroom in. If she goes to the washroom outside the box, move her to the litter RIGHT AWAY even if you dont make it or you trail urine across the floor she should eventually get the idea.
well bunnys r easy to little box train so in my bunnys cage i have a box with wood chips in it where she learned to go potty in so wen i let her run around in the house i take out her little box. make sure she nos its there, then wen she has to go sumthims she'll go in it but sumtimes she will poop on the floor or couch..
By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litterbox where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Here are some suggestions to help you to train your rabbit to use the litterbox.








Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit's attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. If you have a baby, stick with it! And if you are deciding whether to adopt an older rabbit, or litter train your older rabbit, go for it!





Does Spaying/Neutering make a difference?


Yes! This is often the most important factor. When rabbits reach the age of 4-6 months, their hormones become active and they usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier).





What types of litter should I use?


It depends on what's available in your area and what your rabbit's habits are. Keep in mind the following as you choose your litter:





most rabbits spend lots of time in their litter boxes


rabbits will always nibble some of the litter


rabbit urine has a very strong odor.


House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday's News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article.





Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues.





Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box.





Pros and cons of the various types of litter include:








Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product.


Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors. One brand is called GentleTouch 1-800-545-9853.








8.5 Cleaning and Disposal.


Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out--for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like ';Nature's Miracle'; to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer.





8.6 What kinds of cages work best?


Use a cage large enough to contain a small litterbox (along with bunny's food and water bows, toys, etc.) and still allow enough room for the rabbit to stretch out. Place the box in the corner of the cage that he goes in. With a litterbox in the cage, when the rabbit is confined to his cage when you're not home, cage time is learning time.





8.7 What if my cage is on legs or has a door that opens on top so the bunny can't get into it on his own?


If it is on legs, build a ramp or stairs, or pile boxes to make steps--anything so he can come and go on his own.


If the door is on top, put a small stool or box inside to help him get out, a board or piece of rug to help him walk to the edge of the cage, and a ramp, stairs, stool, or boxes to help him get down (and up again).








8.8 What if my cage is too small for a litter box or I don't use a cage?


If your cage is too small for a litter box, you may have a cage that is too small for your rabbit. Our Housing FAQ has lots of info on appropriate cages and enclosures.


Or you may have a dwarf rabbit and can't get a small litter box. A good substitute is a Pyrex baking dish. Even 9'; x 9'; is sufficient for a small 3 or 4 pound rabbit.

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