Will providing enough chewing toys to my pet rabbit stop it from chewing other important stuff?

I keep my rabbit in her cage most of the time. But I allow her to roam about in the house for about an hour each day. It is then that she chews electrical cords, books, cloths etc. If I keep chewing toys in her cage will she stop chewing other stuff when I allow her to come out?Will providing enough chewing toys to my pet rabbit stop it from chewing other important stuff?
Your rabbit should have a t least 5 hours out each day. What a horrible life being stuck in a cage!!


If you have no garden you still have to do this in the evening if you are out all day. Don't keep your rabbit confined to her cage just because you cannot be bothered to pick stuff up off t he floor and watch her. You should be bonding with her. I am not having a go at you, this is the only way i can express my feelings for the rabbit and if she can get to items you cannot be being careful enough.





It is natural that rabbits chew to file down their teeth as their teeth are constantly growing throughout their lives.


You can deter her a bit with a product called bitter apple, but you will never stop her chewing totally.If she is chewing the bars of her cage, i cannot blame her. This can also cause teeth growth problems





My rabbits when in the house were out all the time when i was at home. You should get some plastic covers for cables from your diy store and remove destroyable items off the e floor.


Pay more attention to her and if she chews anything, remove her from the area but do not speak to her as she is seeking your attention.


Give her apple wood to chew on or rabbit chews from your local store in her cage.Make sure she is fed on a pelleted diet like Burgess Excel with veg %26amp; fruit in moderation and plenty of Hay.


Please email me if you need more help.Will providing enough chewing toys to my pet rabbit stop it from chewing other important stuff?
No





Rabbits need to chew to stop their teeth from growing too long











The following was compiled by me to give more help to new rabbit owners and I exhibit rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lop rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50+ years ago, when I was a small child.





History ... Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).





Behaviour of all rabbits ... Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.





Feeding ... Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs and along with the following. Vegetables:


Artichoke leaves and Jerrusalem leaves, stems and tubers, Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorns and full size ones, Beetroot, Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties), Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts), Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets), Carrots (and carrot tops), Cauliflower (and the leaves), Celeriac, Celery (and its leaves), Chicory (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Courgette ( also leaves and flowers), Cucumber ( also leaves and flowers), Curly Kale (Excerlent for winter use), Fennel, Green beans (including leaves and stems), Kohl rabi, Parsnip, Peas (including the leaves and pods), Peppers (red, green and yellow), Pumpkin ( also leaves and flowers), Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine (and all other lettuce as this is a diretic), Spinach (only occasional), Spring Greens, Squash (e.g. Butternut, leaves and flowers), Swede (Excerlent for winter use), Turnip (only occasional), Watercress.


Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil, Coriander, Dill, Mint (peppermint), Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.


Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content): all types of fresh fruit including skin Apple, Apricot, Banana (high in potassium),Blackberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Blueberries,Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi Fruit, Melon, Mango, Nectarines, Orange, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Plums, Strawberries, Raspberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Tomatoes (not the leaves)


Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed ( in small amounts as this is a diretic), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Dandelion (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!, Lavender, Mallow, Nettle (the type with the white flowers), Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Shepherd's purse, Sow Thistle, Plantain, Yarrow.


Extra vitamins and salt licks are not required. Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily. To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their low quality food, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing. Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots


Rabbits living indoor will drink more water than rabbits living out of doors because of the dryer atmosphere





Housing ... For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.


Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you can not therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.


Rabbits are naturally very clean animals and will only defecate and urinate in one area.





Bedding ... Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.


Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings





Exercise ... Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.


Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).





Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots. Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.


Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.





Health ... It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your child's rabbit.


To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. I don't see altering as cruel when the kits may be dead in a year anyway; either through being ';released'; into the wild'; or being slaughtered in a shelter when the owners have got bored of them.


Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.





Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back
It might but it depends on the rabbit, Rabbits usually chew otha stuff because theyre bored..and need their own teeth to shorten down a bit. I would advise u to buy this spray suitable for bunnies, and spray it all ova tha things she chews this will def. stop ur bun to stop chewing things u dunt want to be chewed.


Gd Luck


x :]
It might help, but rabbits are curious little creatures , all you can do is rabbit proof your house. or trying spraying it with water when its in the act. Then it will associate the chewing with being sprayed. Bored bunnied are more likely to be destrictive, so make aure he/she has lots of toys and your spend time together
probably,you just have to encourage it to play with them
I have parrot wood toys hanging from the tops of rabbits cages they love wood or you can get sticks from outside with bark they chew the bark off just check and see what tree branches not to use via your location also give them large plastic cat ball with bells (not small) they love them they throw them around ,they also have thick card board tubes in pet stores they can chew ,I give mine toilet paper rolls they chew them and throw them around. I dont use paper towel rolls or toilet paper rolls if glue stays on them. Bunnies are so cute!!!


Hope this helps


www.blujay.com/petsrus
Your rabbits teeth are constantly growing, meaning they have to gnaw on things to wear them down, which could explain why she feels the need to chew stuff. It is a good idea to give her chew toys but make sure they are safe, another idea is to give her plenty of hay and a pellet food, which helps them to wear her teeth down. I had the same problems with my rabbit. It can also be a sign of boredom so try and give her things to keep her amused, balls and things work.
deppends on her age, if she is under a year she will chew on anything and everthing no matter what you do. I suggest that you pic one room in you house to let her out in then pic everthing up off the floor that could be dangerous to her, and let her out. And as to another answer made before is not nessicary to let your rabbit out five hours a day. One is more then enough. My show and breed stock rabbits come out of there cages only in the spring and fall for about 20 minutes each day. As long as the rabbit is in a cage that is good for its size it is fine. Also you might want to try putting a pen up for her outside when it gets warmer and letting her out for a little bit, rabbits love fresh grass and that when she can't chew up your house.
let her out of her cage and see what she chews on, then go to the pet store and try to find similar things or materials to what she chewed on. and don't just place the toys in her Cage, spread them around the room so when she is hopping about she finds a toy and chews on it instead of a book 2 feet away!